I won't go into things too much, but suffice to say: I am up to my old tricks again. Today I lost my wallet. Not like the time just some weeks back where it bounced back straight away. No, a quality job this time. My money, discount return tickets to Osaka, my postal savings account card, credit card and alien (gaijin) card all gone. I blame Japanese writer, Haruki Murakami. This is why: I was in a bookshop that sells English books (Kinokuniya - have you been to the one in Sydney?) and I thought, darn it, I need to read more. It's not that I'm not well read, it's more like I don't, well, read! Well, to be fair on myself, magazines, online stuff, newspapers - sure, but not serious novel-type stuff. For one who writes so much (guff), it's pretty arrogant to read so little. So, I bought a book and took it with me to work this afternoon. That one piece of extra paraphenalia was enough to disorient my feeble brain and lose track of my 3rd most important possession here. (#1 is my passport, #2 is my computer). Anyway... there you go. I say being well-read is overrated... but the engrossing start of the book did contribute to my absent-mindedness. It's called Kafka on the Shore.

Kafka on the shore, wallet on the train. boohoo

Anyway... this the sort of view we saw as we took the train from Nagoya to Hida-Takayama. The train is called the Hida Wideview, and true to its name has these awesome, large, spotlessly clean windows that come down to your elbows. Perfect for taking in the sights of rivers, streams, gorges, mountains etc... as you snake your way north.

It's a really relaxing journey! I really started to feel like I was on holidays on this train. It takes about 2 hours and chugs at a steady diesel pace. We'd taken the shinkansen (bullet train) to Nagoya - I'd describe that experience as hurtling. This train ride was more like moseying. I like both. Train is definitely the way to go in Japan.

Takayama is the place you saw before on this blog under a lot of snow. So it was funny revisiting places and saying "Oh, I didn't know that was there!" about previously buried objects. There's a river and adjoining canals that run through the town. It's a slice of traditional Japan - kind of touristy, but functional and pretty authentic. The pace is definitely old Japan. My parents were a little shocked to see Kyoto was a bustling metropolis where traffic often threatens to bowl you over on the crowded streets. I was too when I first went there - Takayama is a bit like the Kyoto of your mind's eye - small scale, quiet, tranquil and not overrun with tour-buses. It doesn't have the zillions of attractions that Kyoto boasts, but I guess I'm talking ambience.

Here you can see trees still trussed up to prevent heavy accumulated snow from snapping the branches off. There was a Blue Mountains mistiness to this place.

We stayed at an excellent ryokan (traditional inn), where one of the main priorities is eating. That's totally fine by me! The meals were absolutely scrummy and as you can see, the Japanese sure know how to present their food. Mum, Dad and I were on gastronomic cloud 9.

This lovely, pint-sized lady was so nice. She had a very masculine posture and particularly matter-of-fact way of walking around the place - I can still hear her scuffs whipping along the corridor floor. She had a very friendly cigarette-culitvated huskiness in her voice and her laugh and seemed to have fun talking to people with clumsy, toddler-like linguistic skills like me. To any request she'd say "hai hai" as she walked off. I wonder how old she was - I hope I have half her fesitiness at that age... well, now, actually.

We had to get used to life on the floor. I was kind of half way there I guess - I spend a lot of time at home on the floor now. Not because I'm turning Japanese, but because I'm a slob and my sofa always has too much stuff on it for me to sit on it. But yeah... my legs still have a ways to go before I can claim that I've gone native. Oww

These guys were very intriguing to say the least. They seemed to be doing a circuit of the streets near a temple moaning/droning loudly in the light drizzling rain. We saw them in the distance go between buildings and then they came round a corner and headed straight for us, still bellowing as they walked past. A lady came out from a shop and one of them stopped. She put some money in his bowl and bowed deeply. He then seemed to pray for her as she stood bowed with her eyes closed. Their feet were shod with straw sandals. I'm not sure if they are pilgrims or monks, but I'd guess monks. I couldn't help imagining them in an old samurai movie - being ambushed but suddenly revealing swords and having a fight in the street! I've probably just said something deeply offensive to someone. They were pretty eerie, like spectres haunting the town.

I'm pretty sure these things are people's/group's names - the idea being that you stick your name on a temple and the flow of good stuff comes your way some. That's my highly technical and thoroughly unresearched theory. Anyway, the blue and yellow sticker is of a sporting club.

Apart from just being a well-preserved place, Takayama is famous for its matsuri or festivals. This museum houses some of the floats that are used each year, including this one. They are pretty impressive - very richly decorated with intricate cloths, lacquer, metalwork and woodwork. There's one in Spring and another in Autumn - times when the quiet streets become full of activity.

I'm not sure if I can say this, but it's a cool sign nonetheless. Did I leave my heart in Takayama?
Well, that little old lady has a small piece of it. Next up is Tokyo and the sights of a matsuri in Kamakura! Til then...